With sweeping synergy, this season’s Métiers d’Art collection read love the restricted Chanel model of connect-the-dots. Virginie Viard invited company to Le19M, the newly opened building devoted to the workshops of the maison’s artisans, where she presented her most crafts-centric collection internal the proper connected architecture that had told its cuts and motifs. “I genuinely feel love I’m abet in school when I’m right here,” Viard mentioned after the level to, and she’d gain prime marks for group. Named after the arrondissement it inhabits, the triangular Le19M was designed by Rudy Ricciotti whose “concrete thread” façade conjures up the intricacy of embroidered high fashion cloth. Viard echoed those strains—as smartly as ingredients from the building’s interior—in a collection she known as “metropolitan.”
That you just must well well presumably see the façade’s organic grid-love building within the tweed pockets that adorned the narrow column coat that opened the level to, and likewise on the tunic that followed. The basis was extra figuratively suggested within the third-dimensional knitting of a purple cut-prime-and-culotte ensemble, or the hand-spun gold ribbon embroidery of the head in exit 26. In the sport of synergy, nonetheless, the total is elevated than the sum of the parts. It’s the truth for Lesage, Montex, Lemarié, Lognon, Goosens, Maison Michel, and Massaro—the heritage artisans now essentially essentially based mostly at Le19M—whose painstaking, astronomical time-ingesting, handsome pieces of craftsmanship are build into the enviornment to make contributions to a bigger image: the stout seek for.
Placing these age-inclined practices in a recent context, Viard took that seek for to the streets—on the least those left of the River Seine. Interpreting the Chanel branding by way of graffiti-love embroidery, she exercised her grab on the logomania that’s an increasing kind of stuffed the Instagram pages of 2021. A first-rate nestled the double-C among floral appliqué, the a similar model was playfully speckled on cardigans and trousers in fluffy silver embroideries, and the Chanel title seemed tagged in multi-colored crystals all the way in which by way of the entrance pockets of a tweed blouson that evoked a sweatshirt. In a world where streetwear has taken by itself literal which diagram—clothes for any avenue, in every single attach—Viard was living as much as the tasks Chanel has spot itself with Le19M: securing the survival of rare craftsmanship by connecting it to the future.
That you just must well well presumably hiss that’s the very raison d’être of the Métiers d’Art collection, too. Supporting that level, mid-level to the Korean prime mannequin Soo Joo walked off the runway and stepped onto a pedestal where she transitioned into her fresh pop large title alter ego Ether. Alongside Oneohtrix Point By no diagram—the vaporwave artist incessantly referred to as Daniel Lopatin, who produces for The Weeknd—she conducted her single “Haemin,” followed by the word 12.21 written particularly for the finale. Michel Gaubert and Ryan Aguilar—Chanel’s musical supervisors—referred to the dance/trance orchestration as “exquisitely detailed music-making: sonic vignettes that kiss every other.” In that sense, all the issues got right here stout circle on the Chanel runway: from streetwear to music, this existing day couture appears to be just like the magic word.